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Whistler While You Play

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    Only an hour's drive from Vancouver, British Columbia, the resort town of Whistler has been nicknamed the Disneyland of Skiing. And once you tour the pristinely organized streets of Whistler Village, ski the slopes, bike the trails, or experienced the nightlife, you'll understand why. Whistler and Blackcomb are the two local mountains, both of which are accessible from the same base area. Although the mountains used to be owned independently and charge separate lift fees, Intrawest now owns both and charges a single price for access to all lifts. Combined, the two mountains offer more terrain than most ski resorts in North America. High speed lifts and gondolas service the entire area; even on crowded days you can ski or snowboard to your heart's content. The lower part of the mountain is geared towards beginners, while the more advanced skiers and snowboarders will find plenty of challenging runs higher up. Adventurers will find a number of bowls and backcountry runs to explore, too. As great as Whistler is during ski season, it's not only a winter phenomenon. There is actually more to do in the summer than in the winter (although the nightlife isn't quite as happening.) Mountain biking, hiking, river rafting, tennis, golf, a ski jump into a swimming pool, and summer skiing on the liftaccessible Whistler glacier are just some of the summer activities available. The mountain biking tours from the top of the mountain down are worth the price. More advanced bikers can rent bikes without taking the tour. River rafting around Whistler is especially exciting for first timers. <big>Food and Drink</big> After you exhaust yourself playing outside all day, it's time to chow. Dining in Whistler is superb, but you should be aware that the best restaurants require a hefty checkbook (or plenty of plastic.) The Mongolie Grill, a Mongolian restaurant where you fill a bowl full of your choice of raw meats, vegetables and sauces, is my personal favorite. The house chefs cook your food on a large grill; meals are priced by the weight of your bowl. A decent size meal will run $10 U.S. The Teppan Village is an excellent Japanese restaurant, with chefs who perform acrobatic feats with kitchen knives and your food while preparing your meal. For superb Italian dining in a more formal environment, Trattoria di Umberto serves up some exquisite dishes. Teppan Village will run $20 U.S. for a meal, while Umberto may cost up to $50 U.S. Students looking to party will find a plethora of bars and clubs in Whistler Village. Three of the best are Citta, Buffalo Bill's and Garfinkle's. Citta is a good place to go to talk over drinks, while Buffalo Bill's is better for dancing. (Bill's is also more lenient about the age of their patrons.) Garfinkle's is probably the best overall nightspot for college students looking to party hard with people their own age. The 19yearold drinking age is a welcome change for Americans used to sneaking their way into bars and clubs with fake IDs. If you're not of age, even under Canadian law, the best time to hit the bars is during the week. There are fewer customers then, and the bars are more lenient about whom they serve. Potheads will also marvel in the large variety of "B.C. bud" that is available from notsosubtle locals. <big>Lodging</big> Hotels at Whistler are expensive. However, there are some cheap youth hostels and condos for rent during certain times of the year. If you are planning a winter trip to Whistler around an American or Canadian holiday, make your reservations at least six months in advance. The Chateau Whistler is probably the best area hotel. The interior is superbly decorated and organized, with the ski storage a convenient 30foot walk from the lifts. Not surprisingly, the Chateau is trés pricey. Whistler has a central reservation system for all hotels in the area, and you can find reasonable prices if you book in advance for ofpeak dates. Whistler also has a number of inexpensive hostels, though they're all located outside the town. <big>Crowds</big> To avoid crowds, visit Whistler midweek, as the resort is a popular weekend destination for Vancouver area residents. One of the best times of year to visit is during the week before Christmas. The snow at this time of year is usually excellent and the hordes are still celebrating at home. Be aware, however, that the resort will be mobbed the day after Christmas. If you find yourself at Whistler during high season, there are a few things to remember to save you time and hassles. First, purchase a multiday ticket to avoid daily ticket lines. Second, wait until after one o' clock to eat on the slopes. Finally, the Fresh Tracks program is a good investment for those looking to get a jump on the lift lines. For about $10 U.S., Fresh Tracks gets you a ride up the mountain an hour before the lifts open, breakfast at the summit lodge, and as many runs as you can ski before the crowds reach the top. If you don't dawdle at breakfast, you can get three runs in before the lift lines begin to form. Jon Rosen once skied four runs before the lifts opened.
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