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Istanbul

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    Upon first arriving in the bustling city of Istanbul, I compared it with New York. The people, the shops, the tall buildings ― everything was so similar to many major U.S. cities. Even the smell was the same ― cigarette smoke mingled with the salty scent of the sea. However, I later learned that there is so much more to Istanbul than that. Not only can you enjoy the city life, but you can visit ancient structures that have been standing for hundreds, or, in some cases, thousands, of years, you can eat some extremely spicy food, and you can shop for trinkets, such as jewelry and sunglasses ― and you won’t have to walk even a mile to accomplish all this. One of the most popular sites in Istanbul is the Topkapi Palace, built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453. This fascinating marble structure is where many of the sultans lived and ruled, up until about one hundred and fifty years ago. Although the palace is no longer used as such, concerts are still held in its huge concert hall, which can seat about ten thousand people. The rest of Topkapi has been turned into a museum. It holds many ancient artifacts, including Chinese porcelain, jade, and other precious stones. On display in glass cases are possessions of the sultans, such as the throne of Suleiman and various helmets, swords and other weapons. Because the seven hundred thousand square foot palace was built on top of the tallest of Istanbul’s seven hills, it has a brilliant view of the city and the Bosphorus Strait. In particular, there is a terrace that overlooks the sea; from there you will get one of the best views of Istanbul. The exotic flowers of the Imperial Gardens are absolutely stunning and the kitchens’ towering chimneys are mustsees. Topkapi’s library, while bereft of its books, was built so precisely that the sultan had a specific place for his throne and the shelves were shaped for the express purpose of holding scrolls. While in Topkapi Palace, I learned about how it was made. The massive blocks of marble were cut using silk, the strongest fabric known to man. A mixture of sand and water was poured onto the sand. Then silk would be laid across that and people on either side would pull the silk back and forth until it cut all the way through the rock. Another popular site is the Hagia Sophia. This was initially a church, but when the Ottoman Turks took over Istanbul (Constantinople at the time), Mehmet the Conqueror said not to destroy it. He added minarets and turned the Hagia Sophia into a mosque. Today it is no longer used as a place of worship, but is a museum containing beautiful mosaics and frescoes. The gold leaf used in much of the artwork is so delicate that we had to turn off the flashes on our cameras. The Hagia Sophia was one of the first structures to have a dome that supports itself. While it is evident that some parts of it have been rebuilt, the passageway that leads from the upper floor to the lower floor is clearly ancient. By putting your hands on the stones, you can determine that the rock is original. Right across the street from the Hagia Sophia lays the Blue Mosque (also called the Sultanahmet Mosque). This mosque is still used as a place of worship, so silence is mandatory, shoes must come off, and modest apparel is provided for those who are not up to par. For instance, if a man or woman is wearing shorts, there is a man at the entrance who will give you a long skirt to put on over your clothes (these fasten with Velcro so one size fits all). Shoulders also must be covered, but women are not required to wear head scarves. The workers give you a plastic bag to put your shoes in before you enter, and you carry it with you. Due to the large number or bare feet that have come in contact with the entrance of the Blue Mosque, the top step has started to wear away. There are big indentations in the marble where the oils from so many people’s skins have touched it. Once inside, though, you will find magnificent walls, ceiling, and carpets. Everything is blue, thus the name the Blue Mosque. Since Friday is the Islamic holy day, it is not desirable to visit the Blue Mosque then. Also, it is closed to visitors during prayer time (which is five times a day). However little historical significance this mosque has, its beauty is well worth the walk across the busy street. Also one of Istanbul’s lustrous buildings is the Dolmabahçe Palace. This is the palace that was built one hundred and fifty years ago to replace Topkapi as the place from which the sultan ruled the country. Turkey’s founder, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, died in the Dolmabahçe Palace. The palace contains so many exquisite artifacts that it takes over two hours to view them all, if you rush. There are, on display, over thirty elaborate tea sets! The amount of money it would have cost to furnish the palace is incredible; almost all the furniture has gold leaf on it and there are two huge polar bearskin rugs in one of the sitting rooms. The wood floors are decorated with some of the most intricate designs I have ever seen. Dolmabahçe houses the biggest chandelier in Turkey, which has over two hundred bulbs, and is therefore only lit on special occasions (like when a foreign leader visits). Even today, when people such as the U.S. President visit Turkey, the ceremonial hall of the Dolmabahçe Palace is the place where they are welcomed to the country. Another cool thing to see is the Basilica Cistern. This is an underground water reservoir used by the people who occupied Istanbul hundreds of years ago. Cisterns were important because Istanbul was attacked often and when under siege, the people would have fresh water to drink without having to leave the safety of the city walls. This cistern is unique because it lies beneath the Basilica of the Apostle John. As you might imagine, cisterns are fairly chilly and have an odor of mildew and dust. This would be difficult for those with allergies, but it is astonishing to imagine the intellect of the ancient people who designed and built these marvels. According to artists’ renderings of what the cistern would look like when filled and archaeologists’ estimates, the Basilica Cistern could hold maybe a hundred thousand gallons of water, or more. Cisterns were built by drilling holes in the rock, carving columns, and building structures over the cisterns. The columns keep the structures (in this case, John’s Basilica) from caving into the cisterns. The oldest thing that you can see in Istanbul is the remnants of the walls of Byzantium (the city’s original name). The walls were constructed around 6 B.C. It is amazing that they have stayed up for over two thousand years. There are seventeen miles of ruins of the walls. It is hard to get to a place where you can climb up on the ruins, but it’s fun to get in a taxi and drive from one end of the ruins to the other. In addition to all of that is the Hippodrome. The Hippodrome is an old stadium where the Turks would have held sporting events. Although it no longer has its former beauty, this building used to be covered in a huge domed roof and would have been one of the most exciting places in town. The Hippodrome was the place where all the children wanted their fathers to take them on weekends; it was the place where everyone wanted to be. All types of events took place at the Hippodrome. Turkish wrestling, Olympic like games, and an early version of football (soccer, to us) all took place here. However thrilling it is to see all those old buildings and things, you have to get a taste of Turkish culture before you leave. Some common (and delicious) foods in Istanbul include peppers stuffed with rice and meat, lamb kabobs, and Turkish ice cream, which is not that different from American ice cream except that it’s way thicker. Seafood is a staple, as are bread and yogurt. I got the opportunity to try sardines while I was there; they weren’t my favorite, but I wanted to try some of the traditional foods. Baklava was by far my favorite dessert. It’s a tremendously sweet pastry, usually filled or covered with crushed candied pistachios. Also, Turkish shopping is exciting. The streets of Istanbul contain so many private vendors and other shops and things that it is not hard to spend a whole day browsing through them all. Speaking of shopping, a mustsee is the Grand Bazaar. It has eightyfour streets and four thousand shops, all under one roof. The Grand Bazaar was built during the time of Mehmet the Conqueror’s reign. Essentially it was, and is, an ancient shopping mall. It has been refurbished, but some parts of the original walls are still intact. Unfortunately, there are no maps provided, and it is easy to get lost. The winding streets make an approximate grid pattern, though, so it is not hard to find your way back again. It can be enjoyable to haggle the merchants in the Grand Bazaar, but only if you end up getting a good deal. I, for one, spent about seven hours in the Grand Bazaar, negotiating with people trying to sell me things. I bought silk scarves for my friends, and it was fun to bargain for them. Americans get harassed sometimes in the Grand Bazaar, but it is a minor issue and does not detract from the fun of looking at all the stuff in various shops. For example, there was a little boy selling tops for one lira apiece, which is about eighty cents. When we said we didn’t need a top, he followed us for three blocks. There was also a man that was selling knockoff designer colognes. He asked us if we wanted to buy some, and when we turned him down, he followed us for awhile. Aside from walking around visiting all the buildings and experiencing the cultural melting pot that Istanbul is, you can take a brief cruise of the Bosphorus Strait (and by “brief,” I mean about five hours). This allows you to see some of the places we saw on land from a different view, but it also enables you to see some things that you otherwise might not notice. For example, you can see a gigantic fortress built by Mehmet the Conqueror. There isn’t much to see of it that you don’t see from the boat, and this way you can see the whole thing at once. Also, there are the living quarters of some of the sultans’ important officials (advisors, counselors, ambassadors, etc.). You can see several bridges that span the length of the Bosphorus and it is an ominous feeling to be between two continents― Europe and Asia. As you can see, there is plenty to do in Istanbul. There are so many different aspects of this wonderful city: if you like history, you can see some old buildings, if you like to eat, you can find something delicious, and if you like to shop, you can do that. There is something for everyone in Turkey’s biggest city.
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